Exarcheia, Athens: A Local’s Guide To Hidden Gems And Hotspots

First time visiting Exarcheia in Athens? This guide will help you get the overall vibe and find the best spots.

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No trip to Athens can be considered complete without a visit to Exarcheia, the renowned counterculture district.

Exarcheia in Athens is a bohemian quarter which sprawls around the eponymous square, developed in its current form when the National Polytechnic School was founded there.

Because of that, the neighborhood became synonymous with culture and politics, as students, professors, and all sorts of intellectuals chose it as their place of residence.

Nowadays, Exarcheia is one of Athens’ most lively and dynamic areas, filled with interesting spots to visit.

Our guide will suggest some personal preferences, but remember that the joy is in revealing its secrets by yourself.

So, wander freely and explore its streets to discover historic buildings, lively markets, and cosy restaurants, cafés and bars.

Exarcheia Highlights

If you are on a tight schedule, here are some Exarcheia highlights that will give you a quick taste.

1. National Polytechnic School

As mentioned before, this impressive group of neoclassical buildings is the main root of the area’s political and intellectual character.

Notably, it housed the student uprising movement which played an integral role in the fall of the dictatorship in 1973-74.

2. Blue Apartment Building

In the north-east corner of Exarcheia Square you will find the oldest apartment building in Athens.

The modernist building was completed in 1933 and took its name from its distinctive blue color, curated by the famous painter Spyros Papaloukas.

Through the years it has served as the residence of known politicians, artists, writers and other historical figures.

3. Kallidromiou Farmer’s Street Market

If you find yourself in Exarcheia on a Saturday, don’t miss out on one of the most celebrated “laikí” (street market) in Athens.

Here, besides a wide-ranging assorted crowd, you can shop for fruits and vegetables, as well as other things like flowers.

4. National Archaeological Museum of Athens

Last but not least, you can always combine your visit to Exarcheia with a visit to the National Archaeological Museum of Athens.

Greece’s largest archaeological museum, and the best of its kind in the world, it should be on every traveller’s itinerary.

Our National Archaeological Museum Of Athens guide will provide you with all the necessary highlights so you won’t get lost in its vast collection.

Best Things To Do And See In Exarcheia Athens

Find Your Favourite Café

Exarcheia has a very diverse and vibrant café culture, ranging from traditional places (kafenío) to modern era coffee roasters.

Whether you like to sit outside soaking the Athenian sun or enjoy your coffee on a well designed interior, it is certain you will find your favorite spot.

Try Mavros Gatos on Koleti pedestrian street for people-watching or Kokkoi Kafe on the bustling Asklipiou street, both classic staples of the area.

Alternatively, you can enjoy the latest wave in roasting and brewing in White Turtle in Stournari street or in Behold The Man on Exarcheia Square.

Relax At Navarinou Park

A parking lot which was long abandoned became the perfect opportunity for the Exarcheia community to show its true character.

In 2009 the people of Exarcheia decided to occupy the parking lot in Navarinou street and turn it into a luscious green park.

Hence, in Exarcheia, Athens, the city’s first self-managed park was born and today you can enjoy it too. 

Run by a local collective, the Navarinou Park includes a playground for kids and a screening area.

Discover The Local Markets

Exarcheia is teeming with bookstores, publishing houses, comic book shops, record stores, even second hand and vintage clothing shops.

It’s up to you to discover what you need, but you can start using our suggestions as reference points.

Get your books from Politeia, a classic meeting spot for book lovers, or from Komprai, one of the latest arrivals.

Shop for punk rock vinyl records at Rhythm Records or try Le Disque Noir, especially if you’re into heavier sounds.

Look for your favourite comic books and collectibles, and meet fellow enthusiasts at Solaris or at Relax Comics.

Satisfy your vintage clothing and accessories needs at the beloved Yesterday’s Bread or the newer Hotsy Totsy.

Enjoy A Movie At An Open Air Cinema

Like all of Athens, Exarcheia couldn’t miss out on one of the most favourite greek summer habits, the open-air cinemas.

The garden of Riviera or the terrace of Vox have been standard summer meeting points for Athenian cinephiles for decades.

Go Street Art Spotting

Although in the process of being heavily gentrified, Exarcheia still maintains its strong political character and counterculture.

This is more often expressed through big murals and other forms of graffiti, as well as cleverly designed political posters.

So keep an eye for these as you walk around and see if you can spot which are made by some of the best artists in the world.

Or, you can always get a Guided Street Art Tour, making sure you don’t miss anything.

Places To Eat In Exarcheia

Exarcheia is also a known and beloved destination for food lovers in Athens.

From traditional taverns to the latest trends in street food you can satisfy any craving you might have.

1. Salero

Right in the heart of Exarcheia, Salero has been serving exquisite mediterranean dishes for almost 20 years now.

Enjoy the beautiful ambiance, the friendly staff, as well as the carefully selected wine list.

2. Ama Lachei

Tucked away a bit further from the buzzing Exarcheia square, this contemporary taverna offers greek cuisine with a modern twist.

Try delicious mezédes and other dishes based on greek tradition while being seated in its beautiful enclosed courtyard.

3. Rakoumel

This humble and cosy little restaurant is the go-to place if you want to try tasty traditional Cretan dishes.

The friendly staff is there to help you and of course provide you with a lot of rakí, the famous clear spirit from Crete.

4. Cookoomela Grill

This unique grill house boasts as the first vegan souvlaki place, not only in Exarcheia but in Athens overall.

How did they do it? They cleverly replaced the meaty gyro with perfectly grilled mushrooms and the result is amazing!

5. Giorgos-Manos

If you fancy a traditional souvlaki as a quick lunch while exploring the neighborhood, you have to visit Giorgos-Manos.

However make sure you go early if you want to try the best souvlaki in Exarcheia because it closes at 5pm.

Nightlife In Exarcheia

Of course, it’s only natural that the never sleeping Exarcheia also claims a big piece of the Athens nightlife pie.

The close proximity of its dozens of bars make it a perfect destination for the perfect bar hopping experience.

1. Alexandrino

This little bistrot with a touch of French flair is considered one of the best kept secrets of the neighborhood.

Classy yet cosy, it’s the perfect spot for a quick one or for a long night of drinking and talking.

2. Luxus

Designed with great attention to detail as an Art Deco time capsule, Luxus has established itself as a favorite destination.

Its extensive cocktail catalogue with both classic standards and contemporary creations is guaranteed to satisfy all tastes.

3. Enoikos

Enoikos (“The Tenant”) is one of the most historic bars in Exarcheia, being in operation for almost four decades.

Writers, artists, actors and other local intellectuals have been regulars since the beginning, enjoying its chill ambiance over drinks and talks.

4. Intriga

If you enjoy an eclectic mix of alternative rock and electronica with your drink, then Intriga is your spot.

Located on a quiet pedestrian street, close to the square, this classic spot has been a local favorite for years.

5. LULU Athens

Although a recent addition, LULU has already established itself as a popular destination of the nightlife of Exarcheia, Athens.

Strong Berlin-style vibes, great cocktails, friendly staff and an ever-changing lineup of the hippest DJs guarantee an unforgettable experience.

Best Hotels In Exarcheia

1. Radisson Blu Park Hotel Athens

Situated close to the National Archaeological Museum, Radisson Blu Park Hotel provides sophisticated urban design with impressive city views.

You can indulge in upscale accommodations, contemporary amenities, a rooftop pool, and proximity to Exarcheia’s vibrant neighborhood.

2. Hypnos Inn Athens

A stylish boutique hotel, Hypnos Inn Athens is home to modern, relaxing rooms that focus on quiet contemplation.

Its location ensures proximity to Exarcheia but also the much desired tranquillity, away from the nightlife buzz; after all, “hypnos” means “sleep” in Greek.

3. Alter Athens

Alter Athens is a warm and modern hotel that suits visitors seeking a more personal and intimate experience.

Enjoy its chic interior design and let yourself be treated by the very attentive staff of this welcoming retreat.

So now you can start exploring Exarcheia, a neighborhood unlike any other, and experience Athens beyond the usual tourist spots.

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Ready to Explore More of Athens?

I hope you enjoyed my local’s guide to Exarcheia in Athens!

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